Big Lou's Bar-B-Q has closed.

Familiarity pours from Big Lou's Bar-B-Q like the hickory and apple wood scents from the York shop's smoker.

Customers know each other, making small talk as they wait for their orders. Customers know owner Louis Smith Sr. and his handful of workers.

Most importantly, patrons know the food.

And Smith knows how to barbecue.

Customers filed in one after another on a Friday afternoon. They placed their orders at a counter in front of a dry-erase board that list's the menu: Big Lou's Famous Ribs, hand-pulled pork, beef brisket, barbecue-baked beans, wings, baked mac and cheese, yellow rice, potato salad and cole slaw.

It's a casual, relaxed atmosphere - similar to southern mentality. R&B music plays quietly over speakers. An orange neon sign emblazons the word "Ribs" in a long storefront window. The food overshadows the restaurant's simple décor of rows of tables and chairs against white walls.

I ordered a pulled-pork sandwich and barbecue- baked beans. I waited for a few minutes, listening to knives clanking on a counter top as an employee sent orders back to Smith. I peered into the kitchen and saw Smith slicing brisket on a cutting board.

The tender pulled pork, served on a soft kaiser roll, had flavor.

The barbecue ribs platter at Big Lou’s Bar-B-Q comes with two sides. Choose from potato salad, baked beans or mac and cheese, among others.
The barbecue ribs platter at Big Lou's Bar-B-Q comes with two sides. Choose from potato salad, baked beans or mac and cheese, among others. (FLIPSIDE STAFF -- BIL BOWDEN)
So much that it caused me to stop eating and think about what I was tasting - the dry rub on the pork, Big Lou's barbecue sauce, and 10 to 12 hours in a smoker.

I expected the beans to be something similar to canned baked beans. I was surprised to see the side dish is a combo of pinto, black, great northern and vegetarian- baked beans, mixed with barbecue sauce and ground beef. It's sort of more like a chili.

Smith, 40, of York, was laid off from Harley-Davidson in March 2009. From that point, he wanted to work for himself.

He opened the shop in October after testing his recipes for a couple of years with makeshift stands on York streets and through catering.

"A lot of people kept asking us, 'When are you getting a location?'" he said.

He did research, watched a lot of Food Network and built his own smoker. His knack for barbecue - his favorite food - comes from within.

He learned how to barbecue from his southern friends while in the Army and along his travels. To do it right, he said, the cook must have patience and know when the meat is done.

"It's easy to under cook, and it's easy to over cook," he said.

Smith said his mom, Delores Kearse, taught him how to cook when he was 7 years old. He helped her make zucchini bread and fried tomatoes. She taught him how to fry eggs. When he came home from school and she was busy, he fended for himself.

"When I'm hungry, I make my own," Smith said.

Cheap Eats profiles local restaurants with meals for less than $10.

A former Harley-Davidson employee, Louis Smith Sr. opened Big Lou s Bar-B-Q in October. Smith cooks, runs the register and takes orders, along with his
A former Harley-Davidson employee, Louis Smith Sr. opened Big Lou s Bar-B-Q in October. Smith cooks, runs the register and takes orders, along with his small staff. To keep a close eye on customers needs, he pops his head through this window from the kitchen to the dining room. (FLIPSIDE STAFF -- BIL BOWDEN)
Suggestions are welcome. Reach Leigh Zaleski at 771-2101, lzaleski@ydr.com.

If you go

LOCATION: Big Lou's Bar-B-Q, 111 E. Princess St. in York

CUISINE: Barbecue

LEIGH'S PICK: Pulled Pork Sandwich with BBQ Baked Beans and a Diet Pepsi ($8.21)

PARKING: Street

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Thursday through Saturday

PRICE RANGE: 75 cents to $18.99

ALCOHOL: No

SMOKING: No

ACCEPTS: Cash

TAKEOUT: Yes

KID'S MENU: No

DETAILS: Call 814-5957

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