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Quality, not quantity on New Oxford's square

On The Square offers customer-focused dining experience

Posted: 07/06/2009 10:59:45 AM EDT

Sandy Popalo, left, of Harrisburg, and Beth Rutherforg enjoy a lunch at On the Square in New Oxford on a recent Saturday. (Evening Sun - Shane Dunlap)

Tucked away in New Oxford's square is a restaurant that's not focused on the number of people it serves or the money it makes. It cares more about the customer and creating a one-on-one dining experience.

"It's about three things," said co-owner Dennis Watson. "Cleanliness, friendliness and tastiness at very moderate prices."

At On the Square, Watson said you're are not going to be pushed through a window. It's about being "slower and better" and not focusing on the masses.

Three-and-a-half years ago, Watson and co-owner/chef Norobu Shincho remodeled the old New Oxford Family Restaurant into On the Square.

The restaurant is modest as you enter. A large fish tank, which sits in front of a V-shaped counter, immediately is in the customer's line of sight. The seating options are minimal - six booths, one table and counter seating.

But like Watson said, it gives the employees a chance to focus on the individuals coming into their establishment. An average day for On the Square sees about 25 to 30 customers during lunch and eight to 10 at dinner.

It took me longer to peruse the four-page menu than it did for my food to arrive once I made the decision.

The menu offers lunch specials that, when I went, included a roast beef sandwich, a spinach and cheese quiche, an Angus burger topped with avocado and bacon, and parmesan-encrusted tilapia on French bread. All of these came with either a salad or cup of soup. The two soups change daily and featured New England clam chowder and cheesy enchilada.

The daily menu offers sandwiches right off the grill, which come with a choice of fries, chips or a cold side. Sandwiches include hamburgers, cheese steaks, crab cakes and Ruebens.

I narrowed it down to a patty melt or the roast beef sandwich special and made a last-minute choice for the special.

Before I even had a chance to take notes about the menu or the restaurant's atmosphere, my piping-hot soup already was at the table.

Watson said it was made with white sweet corn to give it a sweet kick. I've only recently in life become a fan of clam chowder, and this one did not disappoint.

I was less than halfway done with my soup when my sandwich arrived. The thinly sliced roast beef was about an inch thick on the toasted croissant, and the meal came with a pickle spear and cole slaw.

For Watson and Shincho, it's about the passion behind cooking and preparing food only after it's been ordered, even if there's a wait. Shincho must have lightning-fast skills when it comes to sandwich making.

On the Square offers dinner from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m., but reservations are required. There is a regular dinner menu, but customers also are able to choose a five-course Japanese meal.

During the dinner hours, On the Square is a BYOB establishment and does provide wine glasses.

Watson said nearly 70 percent of the restaurant's dinner customers are repeat business. With easy access to the square and prompt service, I see why that's the case.

Ticket to Lunch is a weekly column featuring local restaurants' meals available during the lunch hour. Contact Katharine Harmon at kharmon@eveningsun.com.