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Café contains plenty of soul, more than just soulfood

Posted: 09/09/2009 10:55:02 AM EDT

Co-owner Obi Linton prepares a wrap for his sandwich press at Soulmate s Corner Café in York. (Daily Record/Sunday News - Jason Plotkin)

The picture on the menu could stop any comfort food lover in his tracks.

A baked casserole dish of gooey, cheesy lumps with a crunchy brown top and big red letters proclaiming it the "Mac Attack."

I had no clue what sandwich to order yet - but I knew what I was getting on the side.

I could give a simple summary of my visit: the Mac Attack alone warrants a return trip.

But that wouldn't capture the bright future for this cozy corner storefront if owners Obi and Nicole Linton can achieve what they envision.

Currently, the new restaurant in downtown York is takeout only. The couple (for now they are the lone employees) work the counter exuding a friendly warmth, quick to answer menu questions and strike up a conversation.

They kid around, calling each "hon" and "babe" as if they were preparing Sunday dinner at home.

And the menu reflects their upbeat, playful nature with such items as The Mad Cow panini (roast beef and red peppers topped with cilantro and gorgonzola cheese) and the Jamaican Sensation wrap (marinated curry chicken breast garnished with shredded coconut).

I selected the South of the Border wrap - tender chicken breast in a spicy pepper and jerk seasoning marinade with a slight underlying sweetness. It was topped with onion, baby spinach and red peppers, giving it a nice sweet/spicy contrast.

Before grilling, the Lintons brush the outside of the wraps and paninis with a butter and garlic spread they created, infusing each with a flavorful glaze.

And of course, I can't forget the Mac Attack. For the first time in memory, mac 'n cheese from a restaurant did not disappoint me. The Lintons use mild and sharp cheddar, Monterey Jack, "and another cheese no one ever thinks of putting in there," Obi said. "I can't tell you what that is."

The result is a creamy taste with a mustard-like bite, although Obi says it contains no actual mustard, just the sharpest cheddar he can find.

Before moving to York a few years ago, the couple lived in New Brunswick, a culturally diverse area in central New Jersey. "Every night, you could try a new kind of food," Obi said. You can see those varied influences in their cooking. And they purposely avoid "being put in a box," Obi said, as just another soulfood place.

I found their knowledge of and curiosity about different cheeses and spices impressive. This might be their first restaurant, but they've been dreaming about the idea for years, studying cookbooks and testing flavor combinations at home on their little George Foreman grill long before they ever invested in a commercial panini press.

Catering for church and community events has supported the restaurant business, and they hope to soon open the adjacent dining room, which is currently under construction. With that will come expanded hours and special events, including jazz, speed dating, spoken word poetry and open mic nights.

"We want to bring something different to York," Nicole said.

Cheap Eats is a biweekly column on local restaurants' meals for less than $10. Suggestions are welcome. Reach Wade Malcolm at 771-2101 or wmalcolm@ydr.com.